Wednesday, 17 July 2013

GRAND CANYON

DESIREABLE RESIDENCE IN SKY CITY - OUTSIDE LOO THOUGH
EL RANCHO HOTEL, GALLUP
WIGWAM MOTEL, HOLBROOK
GRAND CANYON
OOH AAH POINT ON SOUTH KIABAB TRAIL
ON SOUTH KIABAB TRAIL
We left Santa Fe to drive across am increasingly desert-like landscape to Albuquerque, a much larger city than Santa Fe which is bracketed between the Sandia Crest Mountains and the Rio Grande River. After a quick look around the rather touristy Old Town and an ice cream in a classically-styled Route 66 diner, we continued on to Acoma Sky City.

Acoma is a pueblo (town) built on a mesa 367 ft above sea level, hence its other name Sky City. It has no mains water or electricity supplies, yet it has been continuously inhabited by the Pueblo Indians since 1150AD.

We paid for a guided tour of the pueblo, but I found myself disappointed because the Indian residents didn't seem to make much effort to preserve the authenticity of the houses, having modified them using modern materials. Whilst we were being told how unique and historic the place was, cars and portaloos were evident all around us (Acoma has no sewers). A much better impression would have been gained if these things had been moved out of sight. For me, the best things were the views from the town and the steep walk down.

Our final destination for the day was the El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, New Mexico. Other than being on Route 66, there was little of interest in Gallup itself. However, the hotel was quirky, with a large open lobby with two spiral staircases leading to an overlooking balcony. The decor was a little dated, with pictures of yesteryear's film stars adorning the walls, but the place was comfortable enough. Apparently, the Hotel had been used as the base for several film productions, mostly westerns, made between 1940 and 1964. The rooms are named after famous actors who had stayed in them - Winston and I shared the Errol Flynn room.

Leaving the El Rancho Hotel next morning, we continued our westerly heading and crossed the state border into Arizona. We stopped briefly at Holbrook to see the Wigwam Motel with its accommodation comprising individual concrete wigwams each with a classic car parked outside. After further refreshment stops at Jackrabbit and Flagstaff, we turned north off Route 66 to visit Grand Canyon.

This 277 mile long, one mile deep geological feature with its origins dating back nearly two billion years ago was a 'must  see' on the trip. We parked near to the Desert View observation point. Damien decided that the best way to illicit a group 'wow' response from us was to put paper bags over our heads, lead us blind to the edge, then get us all to remove the bags simultaneously. What trust we must have in him! Anyway, it worked as we were all immediately struck by the sheer scale of the landscape, the vivid yellows, reds and greens of the rock strata, and the sight of the Colorado River winding its way far below.

We would be staying for two nights at the Red Feather Lodge in Tusayan, about 10 minutes drive from the National Park, so we had a full day to explore the Canyon further.

Next morning Damien dropped us off at the Park visitor center, the starting point for hikes in and around the Canyon. I opted to walk a section of the South Kiabab Trail which involved hiking down into the Canyon. I descended about 2,000 feet to a place just beyond Skeleton Point where I could see the Colorado River below. It was very hot, but not as hot as I am told it can be in the Canyon in summer. I had taken plenty of fluid and salty snacks as I didn't want to give new meaning to Skeleton Point.

Unlike a mountain where you ascend before descending, here the hard work is on the way out. It takes twice as long to climb out of the Canyon as it does to climb in. During my upward slog I met some other walkers who had underestimated their fluid requirements, so I gave them some of my water.

The round-trip hike took about 5 hours, which was enough in the heat, although it did rain on the way back to the Lodge.