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| TAKAKKAW FALLS |
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| MARY MARGARET AND DOUG ON ICELINE TRAIL, YOHO |
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| ICELINE TRAIL |
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| WITH MARY MARGARET AT ICELINE SUMMIT |
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| AMAZING LAKE O'HARA |
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| LAKE O'HARA FROM ICELINE LEDGES |
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| NICE SURROUNDINGS! |
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| FRIENDLY COLUMBIAN GROUND SQUIRREL |
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| MY HOTEL |
Our ultimate goal was to walk in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Mary Margaret had identified some great treks around Lake O'Hara, but getting there was a long drive so we would stop and spend the night at other places along the way.
At about 9.00am we set off in a northerly direction along Highway 99, the so called Sea to Sky Highway, and by 11.0am we were in Whistler, a place I'd heard about and wanted to visit. Whistler Village, located between the Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, is a well known ski resort and host to the 2010 Winter Olympics. However, at this time of year snow resides only on the highest peaks so mountain bikes are in much greater evidence than skis. Although Whistler might be referred to as village, with its equipment hire shops, expensive restaurants and activities for children it would be better described as a theme park.
We later stopped to have lunch on the banks of Cayoosh Creek near Lillooet, but didn't spend too long there as we still had many miles to go. We hadn't booked a place to stay the night but came across ViewPoint campground near Salmon Arm, BC, just as the light was beginning to fade. Mary Margaret had pre-prepared and frozen an excellent chicken and sausage cassoulet which we reheated and enjoyed with her home-made bread before retiring to our tents.
I awoke at 6.00pm after a relatively comfortable night in a tent lent to me by Doug and Mary Margaret's son Matt. The campground had been a good choice with clean washrooms and hot showers. After eating and packing our gear we were on our way at 7.40am.
As we drove further east the views got better and better, with the roadside lined with spruce and cottonwood trees and mountains surrounding us. At last we saw the Rocky Mountains ahead of us as we entered Yoho National Park. Having obtained our permit to enter the park we headed for Takakkaw campground. We pitched out tents within sight of Takakkaw Falls, possibly the most impressive waterfall I had seen to date.
It was 2.00pm by now and we needed to get moving if we were going to get a decent walk in. Mary Margaret had done some research and proposed the Iceline Trail which took us to up to Iceline Summit (7,316 ft). The trail led over rocky moraine and past icy pools, with views of the glaciers to the north and over on the other side of Yoho Valley. On reaching the summit we walked back down via the Little Yoho and Yoho Valley's, passing Laughing Falls before returning to the campsite. It was a great walk of about 12 miles with brilliant views, but we didn't get down until after 9.00pm so we had to cook our food in the dark. I didn't tell them that it was my birthday until after we ate, but my day out in the Rockies was one of the best birthday treats I could imagine.
It was cold by the time we were ready to sleep and even colder when we rose at 6.00am in the morning with frost on our tents. We quickly broke camp, reloaded the car and made our way to Lake O'Hara.
You cannot drive all the way to Lake O'Hara but have park your car seven miles away and travel the remaining distance in a special park bus. Moreover, it is difficult to even stay at Lake O'Hara campground because Yoho Park authorities have limited the number of tents to 33. Thanks to Doug getting our booking in early, we are able to stay for two nights. I felt honoured.
As soon as the bus got us to the campground, we were given a little lecture by a Park Ranger about camp facilities, bear precautions and how to care for the environment, etc. We had breakfast as soon as we had pitched our tents.
Lake O'Hara is at an altitude of 6,627 ft. Our walk for the day was to climb from here up the steep Wiwaxy Gap Alpine Route to obtain the great views from the top at 8,300 ft. Looking down, Lake O'Hara is a beautiful deep blue colour whereas the other surrounding lakes are bright green. There were glaciers to be seen all about us. We continued along the loose scree slopes of Huber Ledges to Lake Oesa where we had lunch. A helicopter involved in a rescue at Abbot Pass landed there briefly.
We continued our walk around Yukness Ledges, then back down to Lake O'Hara via the East Opabin Trail and alongside the lake shore back to the campsite. The walk was about 7 miles but seemed longer because of the difficulty.
We agreed to rise at 7.00am next morning, but I had already eaten breakfast by the time Doug and Mary Margaret appeared, their watches having been left on Vancouver time.
We would all walk to Lake McArthur today, but by different routes. I took the All Souls Alpine Route to Lake Shaffer whereas Mary Margaret and Doug took the Alpine Meadow Trail. The All Souls Route was exposed and scree covered and, after reaching the Prospect Viewpoint at 7,152 ft, there was a long slippery slope down to Lake Shaffer. It was 12.30pm when we eventually got back together again at Lake McArthur. We had lunch, carefully watched by a photogenic Columbian Ground Squirel, then walked back down to Lake O'Hara. It rained lightly and the temperature was cooler than the previous day.
We were back in time to enjoy afternoon tea at the very expensive Lake O'Hara Lodge while our gear dried. We also had our supper earlier than usual so that we could attend an 8.30pm talk by one of the Park Rangers on Caribou and threats to their survival.
Tomorrow we will leave Lake O'Hara, but I feel I have been privileged to come to this beautiful, uncrowded and unspoilt place, to experience the challenging walks and enjoy the amazing scenery.
