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| SEGWAY |
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| MODEL OF AMERICA'S CUP CAT |
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| DUNSMUIR TOWN CENTRE |
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| FOOTPATH? |
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| MOSSBRAE FALLS |
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| MIKE WITH SOPHIE AND GIRLIE |
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| BY CASTLE DOME |
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| MY UNEXPECTED RIDE HOME |
However, I had also seen another two-wheeled vehicle that I wanted to try - a Segway. This rather strange invention has its two wheels on a common axis rather than one in front of the other. Segways look like they should fall over, but are kept upright by a highly sophisticated electronic control system. Motion is controlled largely by shifting body weight.
I got down to Fisherman's Quay by 9.00am for the Segway training course, which took about half an hour. That was after I signed the disclaimer forms which said, basically, that if anything went wrong it was my fault. Then, supervised by Mark, I was let loose on the roads and footpaths. I soon got used to controlling it and really enjoyed the experience, not falling off once (or even twice).
My Segway session ended late morning, so in the afternoon I visited the America's Cup Park. Indoors they had some excellent exhibits that demonstrated the technology used in the yachts. Outdoors they had an astro-turfed area onto which bean bags had been scattered, so I made myself comfortable on one of these and watched documentaries about the racing on a huge screen. I am really impressed at how these boats can lift their hulls completely out of the water at speed, hydroplaning on specially shaped, but rather flimsy looking, daggerboards.
Though I had checked out of the Hostel first thing, they were happy to look after my bags during the day. I collected them early evening and headed down to the Ferry Building to catch the 9.10pm bus to Emeryville, from where I could board the Amtrak 'Coastal Starlight' service to Dunsmuir in northern California.
I liked San Francisco and could have managed another day there. It is a city with a lot of character and I particularly enjoyed the waterside areas.
It has hard to get much sleep on the train, so I was tired when I arrived at Dunsmuir at 5.00am. I spent about an hour talking to Javis, another keen walker who had alighted at the same time as me and was waiting for his daughter to come and pick him up. Another hour was spent looking around the town centre, hoping a coffee shop might open early. No such luck. There were only a dozen shops or so, and it was obvious that the recession had hit some of them badly.
I thought that 7.00am was a reasonable time to knock on the door of my accommodation at Dunsmuir Inn and Suites. My room would not be ready until midday, but owner Nabin, of Asian Indian descent, let me leave my bag in a store-room. Unburdened, I spent a bit more time exploring the local area, but as soon as the sun had dried the grass on the local playground sufficiently, I lay down on it, using my rucksack as a pillow. The sun was blisteringly hot by now so I put a newspaper over my face. I don't think anyone paid any attention to me and when I eventually awoke, much refreshed, it was time to check in.
I had a mild sore throat, probably caused by the cool, damp environment of San Francisco. I hoped that the warmer, drier Dunsmuir climate would soon fix this.
In the afternoon I walked to Mossbrae Falls. Getting there involved walking along a mile of railway track - the same track my train would be running on when I continued onto Vancouver. There are warnings telling you that you are not allowed to do this and Amtrak could prosecute for trespass. In practice they seem to turn a blind eye, and will probably continue to do so until someone gets killed. Anyway, Mossbrae Falls produced a lovely display for me, with the sun reflecting on the small droplets produced as the water passed through the leaves of the surrounding trees, so it was well worth the risk.
After my hot walk I fancied a cooling beer and, not far from my accommodation, Dunsmuir Brewery Works offered just that. They are a micro-brewery and had a choice of four ales on tap. I chose ESB, their weakest, but at 5.25% still strong by UK standards. I was befriended by Brandon who worked there, and we sorted out a few of the world's problems together. My eloquence improved with the second pint and by the third, unexpectedly placed in front of me without having ordered it, I could have run for senator. Fortunately the delicious beef-burger I did order helped to soak up some of the alcohol. The burger was the only item on my bill when I came to leave, so I gave a good tip.
I had an early night to try and catch up on my sleep and help my sore throat to heal. Thankfully, it was much improved by morning.
I had asked Nabin's wife, Anita, if a lift could be arranged to take me south so I could go walking in Castle Crags State Park. Sure enough, at 9.00am, local tree-man Mike was there waiting with his two Jack Russell terriers, Sophie and Girlie. Mike was quite keen to show me other places of interest in the area, so I decided to go with the flow and let him drive me north for a closer look at Mount Shasta and its companion Shastina, the imposing mountains that overlook Dunsmuir. Sophie and Girlie sat on my lap as we drove so they could see through the windscreen. Shasta is quite climbable, but with an altitude of just over 14,000 ft I would need 3 days to do it.
Driving back south, we stopped just short of Dunsmuir so I could walk down to Hedge Creek Falls. Sophie and Girlie enjoyed the walk too. Mike was quite a character and fun to be with. He was interested that I had studied physics and asked me several questions about quantum mechanics, of all things, which I did my best to answer in a way he would understand. He said I explained things well but he might just have been humouring me.
It was nearly 11.00am when Mike dropped me off at Castle Crags State Park Headquarters. My walking route took me west along Indian Creek Trail and Flume Trail until I joined the famous Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), a route which stretches all the way from Mexico to Canada. I followed the PCT east until I reached Bob's Hat Trail and then followed Crags Trail up to Castle Dome. Crags Trail was a hard upward slog in the hot sun and the final part was a rocky scramble. I climbed as high as I could up to the summit of Castle Dome but, since a fall from here would be fatal, I stopped when it became too dangerous. I did manage to get to a nice little ledge just below the summit where I could eat lunch and enjoy the stunning views.
The walk down took as long as the walk up so it was nearly 6.00pm by the time I got down to Soda Creek, which connects with the road back to Dunsmuir, just 3 miles away. I had planned to walk back, but part of the route involved walking alongside part of the interstate highway. I had earlier spoken to a Park Ranger, questioning the legality if doing this, but she had assured me this was OK and even gave me a map with the route highlighted.
Unfortunately, California Highway Patrol did not concur with her advice. I hadn't walked more than a few hundred yards along the interstate verge before I heard a loudspeaker voice telling me to come to the car. A Patrol vehicle had pulled onto the shoulder of the highway just behind where I was walking. I did as I was asked and the Officer, whose name I later learned was Jeff, asked me to explain what I was doing. I showed him the map I had been given. After assuring me that my first instincts were correct and that it was illegal to walk on the verge of the interstate, he drove me to Dunsmuir. I got to sit in the caged rear seat of the car where the real crooks go. I found it a bit cramped, so I wondered how much of a struggle it would be to get somebody really big in there.
Before we parted company in Dunsmuir, Jeff kindly took a photo of me in front of his Patrol car.
I was pleased that I had made good use of my short time in Dunsmuir, and had enjoyed the kindness, generosity and chatty, easy-going ways of the locals. In the morning I would continue my journey to Vancouver. As with my arrival, the Amtrak passes through at 5.00am, so it was another early night. I suppose it's called the Coastal Starlight service for good reason.
