GRACELAND

ELVIS'S WARDROBE

OTHER RESIDENTS OF MEMPHIS

DAVE, ME, CLAIRE, SKIP AND CHOOCH

RAIL COMPANION TARA

I doubt if it's possible to come to Memphis without feeling compelled to visit Graceland, where Elvis Presley lived, died and is now buried. The mansion is a 15 minute bus ride from Downtown Memphis, and is just what you might expect for a rock star - big, flashy and perhaps a little excessive. The lounge had 3 TV's in it, all next to each other.

On the other side of the road is a theme park with even more Elvis memorabilia, including a car collection and his two private planes - well, airliners really.

Naturally there are lots of opportunities to spend money. Elvis is apparently generating more of it now than he ever did in his lifetime.

For the rest of the day I chilled out in Downtown Memphis. While I sat eating in Court Square, I was surrounded by so many squirrels I thought I was about to be mugged. Urban grey squirrels desensitised to humans seem to be commonplace in the USA.

To continue my journey to Chicago, I needed to catch the 'City of New Orleans' train at 10.40pm. Grawemeyer's Bar was just near the Amtrak terminal so I had a cold beer whilst waiting and was befriended by Dave, Claire, Skip and Chooch, who regularly socialise here.

The train was cold again. I have come to the conclusion that because the railways mostly transport goods, they don't have a 'human' category. The nearest they have is 'meat' so they refrigerate us. The seats are fine for sitting in but uncomfortable for sleeping in so I didn't have a very good night.

At sunrise I went to the observation car with its outward-facing seats and windows in the roof. It was a hive of social activity, which helped pass the time more quickly until we finally arrived in Chicago at 9.00am on July 4th - Independence Day. I am expecting to have a good time.