THE MOUNT WASHBURN SUMMIT TEAM |
TEACHING THE KIDS HOW TO CROSS THE ROAD |
GIANT PRISMATIC SPRING |
OLD FAITHFULL |
GRAND TETONS IN THE BACKGROUND |
RODEO |
MOTORCYCLES INSTEAD OF HORSES |
EASY RIDERS |
Our first port of call was the Norris Geyser Basin, one of the most active earthquake areas in Yellowstone, and also one of the most acidic hydrothermal areas in the Park. The 'bad egg' smell of hydrogen sulphide hits your senses immediately and the basin pulsates with steam and boiling water from below. There are many geysers, the most famous of which is Steamboat Geyser because it can, on occasion, throw water 300 ft into the air. It didn't produce much more than a splash while I watched though.
We then took a short walk along the south rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (not to be confused with the other Grand Canyon which is MUCH larger). We were treated to some excellent views of the Higher and Lower Falls, the latter involving 328 steps down into the Canyon.
Our next activity was a 'walk' up Mount Washburn. This was actually a relentless climb of around 1,400 ft up to a final altitude of 10,243 ft, but we were rewarded by great views of the whole of Yellowstone from the top while we ate lunch.
Driving to our next destination we were held up by Bison crossing the road. They do look mean and fearsome creatures, and gore a couple of people a year who fail to keep their distance. When we eventually got to the Mud Volcano in Hayden Valley we were greeted by the pungent stench of sulphur.
On the way back to the campground for supper we passed alongside Lake Yellowstone, with beautiful views across the water to the mountains beyond. After an exhausting day, and the prospect of another early start in the morning, I was pleased to get an early(ish) night.
Next morning we started with a visit to further geothermal sites, including Great Fountain Geyser, and the Giant Prismatic Spring with its many colours due to algae and bacteria which are able to survive in temperatures too hot for most forms of life.
Naturally, we had to visit the most famous Geyser of all, Old Faithful, and true to its name it did its stuff almost exactly on the predicted time of 8.42am.
From there it was a moderate drive south out of Yellowstone and into Grand Teton National Park. Although the two parks are adjacent, I felt their characters to be quite distinct. The latter is named after its mountain range, the Grand Tetons, and their presence to the west of us is certainly imposing. The mountains are steep, jagged and dangerous looking, with patches of snow near some of the summits. The mountains overlook several lakes and we chose to take a two hour hike to Hidden Falls on the west side of Jenny Lake. Afterwards we continued our drive down through Jackson Hole (the name of the valley) to the City of Jackson itself.
We pitched our tents on a campground just south of the Snake River and, after supper, headed back to into Jackson to watch a rodeo. This comprised competitive displays of horsemanship, riding bulls and bucking broncos, lassoing steers and speed riding around obstacles. Some of the competitors couldn't have been older than ten!
Finally, we visited a downtown Cowboy Bar. It was just like in the films: men in Stetsons playing pool and swigging back ale and whiskey, pretty bar ladies and a band playing at the far end of the bar. The place was internally decorated with gnarled wooden beams, wall paintings of cowboy scenes and display cabinets containing Winchester rifles, spurs and other western artefacts. Chewing tobacco, a spittoon and a gunfight would have completed the picture.
Next morning, inspired by the rodeo experience, some of us went horse riding ourselves. We followed a trail through meadows and woods, over streams and up hills until we reached a good viewpoint for the Tetons. I was surprised how much I remembered from my riding lessons as a child, thanks to Mum and Dad. The differences between English and American riding are not great - if anything the latter has a more relaxed style.
The rest of the day I spent exploring downtown Jackson. We have seen so many sights over the past week that I felt rather wowed out. It was great not to be 'on a schedule' for a change and just mosey about. I looked in some outdoor shops, wandered around an art gallery and visited Ripley's 'Believe it or Not' collection of incredible facts and items. The most relevant bit of information concerned a lady who used a frying pan to kill a bear that got into her tent. I wonder if she fried it afterwards?
Tomorrow we continue south to Salt Lake City.