TOCCOA, GEORGIA

MY AFRICAN THEMED ROOM AT THE SIMMONS-BOND INN

TOCCOA FALLS

CHILLING OUT ON THE VERANDA AT SIMMONS-BOND INN

The Amtrak train to Toccoa wasn't due to leave D.C. until early evening on the Tuesday, so I spent a large part of the day touring the U.S. Capitol building and learning about the American system of government. The inside of the building is even more impressive than the outside. Later I visited the Spy Museum, which displayed a mix of serious and not-so-serious stuff. They had a whole floor devoted to James Bond.

The train left on time, the seats were roomy and could be tilted back. However, the air conditioning seemed to be on full-blast so it was a bit like being inside a fridge even though it was warm outside. I was wearing shorts and would have been warmer had I changed into longs, but didn't want to get thrown off the train for indecent exposure.

I was informed that adjusting the air conditioning involved going underneath the carriage which, presumably, the attendants are not trained to do (not while the train is moving, anyway). They were great in other ways, though, and brought me a pillow to make me more comfortable. Though the train was long, they seemed to know exactly where everyone was located, and as we approached Toccoa they came to let me know.

I had chosen to visit Toccoa because it was the smallest place I could find roughly mid-way between D.C. and New Orleans. I was helped down onto the trackside at 7.00am Wednesday morning (no platforms in little old Toccoa). The train was 45 minutes late -apparently not unusual because priority is given to goods trains and passenger trains have to work around them.

The lateness worked to my advantage because, even from the station, I could see the lights were on at the Simmons-Bond Inn where I would be staying for two nights. Owner Todd welcomed me at the door of this historic wooden abode built in 1903. Nobody had stayed the previous night in the room I had booked, so it was ready for me. It was decorated African style and has an en-suite hidden behind a book case which swings out when a particular ornament is tugged. I had a shower and Todd invited me to join some other guests for breakfast.

Suitably sustained, I headed off to explore the local area. I discovered that Toccoa was designated a City even though it is smaller than most towns. I was clearly destined to come here as it is in Stephens County, although this is a small administrative area compared to any county in the UK. It was obvious that some businesses were having a hard time, but from the grass cutters and street cleaners about, there was a clear determination not to let the area fall into decay. What wealth there was seemed to be concentrated to the north of railway tracks as on the south side the housing was poorer and appeared to be occupied mainly by black people. There was a cheerfulness about the place, however, and wherever I walked, people waved or said howdy.

One particular place I wanted to see was the 186 foot Toccoa Falls, which was well worth the 5 mile round trip walk.

There is no supermarket in Toccoa and eating facilities are limited, but I enjoyed a typical local evening meal at the Cornerstone Restaurant, served by the chatty and charming Rachel.

I had been without sleep for well over 36 hours by now. John, also staying at the Simmons-Bond Inn, was sitting on the veranda of the house when I got back, so I joined him for a while before getting my head down for 10.00pm.