CURRAHEE MOUNTAIN

ME WITH NINI AND KENNY

SERVICE WITH A SMILE - RACHEL

MEMORIAL TO FALLEN CONFEDERATE SOLDIERS

I learned that Stephens County was once inhabited by Cherokee Indians and that Toccoa was the Cherokee word for 'beautiful'. Four miles to the south-west of Toccoa, as the crow flies, is Currahee Mountain. Currahee means 'stand alone'.

At the foot of the mountain is the site of a WWII training camp where paratroops of the 101st Airborne Division were trained. The films Band of Brothers, Saving Private Ryan and The Dirty Dozen were all about divisions that trained here. These men were the toughest of the tough, and were expected to run up and down the mountain with a full pack.

Obviously, I had to climb the mountain. This turned out to be very hard work, not so much because of its 1,740 foot height but because temperatures were now in the 90's. By the time I got down I was exhausted and short of liquid but met Brian, clearing wood from the front of his property, who gave me bottles of ice-cold water from his fridge. This was just as well as the route I had taken to get back to Toccoa turned out to be a dead end, so I wasted a lot of time retracing my steps.

A short while later I stopped to chat with Kenny who was also working in his garden. He invited me into his home to cool down, drink some more iced water, and meet his lovely wife Nini. We got on so well that it was 6.00pm before I knew it. Kenny offered to drive me back to my digs and since I had already walked over 12 miles in sweltering heat that day, I gratefully accepted.

I returned to the Cornerstone Restaurant to eat and was once again served by Rachel, who was fascinated that I wanted mayonnaise with the Chicken Salad. I was beginning to recognize some of the more subtle differences between the UK and US diets.

In the process of walking around Toccoa and speaking to people, I came to realise how deeply religious the area was. Signs along the road competed with each other to persuade folk to join their particular church. Only then did it dawn on me that Toccoa is in the heart of the bible belt.

There are also clear resonances of the civil war, referred to as the 'northern invasion' by one individual. A memorial to the fallen Confederate soldiers was just across the road from my digs. A fundamental reason for that war was the south's reluctance to abolish slavery and there were still signs of segregation between the black and white people in the community. I did feel that this conflicted somewhat with the strong religious ideals that permeate the locality, but I came to the conclusion that Toccoa was not a place that changed its ways rapidly.

I would be leaving on the Amtrak at 6.30 in the morning so it was another early night. I had really enjoyed my brief stay. Todd and his wife Joy where wonderful hosts and gave me a book to read on the train. Kenny and Nini had made me so welcome in their home. Rachel had ensured that whilst I might be eating alone, I would not be lonely, even when she had others to serve.

The final surprise came in the morning as I sat waiting for the train. At this crazily early hour, along came Rachel with her husband Jeremy. They had come to say a final farewell and give me some picnic food for my journey to New Orleans. It was sad to be leaving. I had stayed in Toccoa just two nights, but felt I was leaving behind some very good friends

TOCCOA, GEORGIA

MY AFRICAN THEMED ROOM AT THE SIMMONS-BOND INN

TOCCOA FALLS

CHILLING OUT ON THE VERANDA AT SIMMONS-BOND INN

The Amtrak train to Toccoa wasn't due to leave D.C. until early evening on the Tuesday, so I spent a large part of the day touring the U.S. Capitol building and learning about the American system of government. The inside of the building is even more impressive than the outside. Later I visited the Spy Museum, which displayed a mix of serious and not-so-serious stuff. They had a whole floor devoted to James Bond.

The train left on time, the seats were roomy and could be tilted back. However, the air conditioning seemed to be on full-blast so it was a bit like being inside a fridge even though it was warm outside. I was wearing shorts and would have been warmer had I changed into longs, but didn't want to get thrown off the train for indecent exposure.

I was informed that adjusting the air conditioning involved going underneath the carriage which, presumably, the attendants are not trained to do (not while the train is moving, anyway). They were great in other ways, though, and brought me a pillow to make me more comfortable. Though the train was long, they seemed to know exactly where everyone was located, and as we approached Toccoa they came to let me know.

I had chosen to visit Toccoa because it was the smallest place I could find roughly mid-way between D.C. and New Orleans. I was helped down onto the trackside at 7.00am Wednesday morning (no platforms in little old Toccoa). The train was 45 minutes late -apparently not unusual because priority is given to goods trains and passenger trains have to work around them.

The lateness worked to my advantage because, even from the station, I could see the lights were on at the Simmons-Bond Inn where I would be staying for two nights. Owner Todd welcomed me at the door of this historic wooden abode built in 1903. Nobody had stayed the previous night in the room I had booked, so it was ready for me. It was decorated African style and has an en-suite hidden behind a book case which swings out when a particular ornament is tugged. I had a shower and Todd invited me to join some other guests for breakfast.

Suitably sustained, I headed off to explore the local area. I discovered that Toccoa was designated a City even though it is smaller than most towns. I was clearly destined to come here as it is in Stephens County, although this is a small administrative area compared to any county in the UK. It was obvious that some businesses were having a hard time, but from the grass cutters and street cleaners about, there was a clear determination not to let the area fall into decay. What wealth there was seemed to be concentrated to the north of railway tracks as on the south side the housing was poorer and appeared to be occupied mainly by black people. There was a cheerfulness about the place, however, and wherever I walked, people waved or said howdy.

One particular place I wanted to see was the 186 foot Toccoa Falls, which was well worth the 5 mile round trip walk.

There is no supermarket in Toccoa and eating facilities are limited, but I enjoyed a typical local evening meal at the Cornerstone Restaurant, served by the chatty and charming Rachel.

I had been without sleep for well over 36 hours by now. John, also staying at the Simmons-Bond Inn, was sitting on the veranda of the house when I got back, so I joined him for a while before getting my head down for 10.00pm.

WASHINGTON D.C.

THE WHITE HOUSE

JFK'S GRAVE

EINSTEIN MEMORIAL

THE U.S. CAPITOL

My four and a half hour journey on the MegaBus from New York to Washington D.C. was fairly dull. I might have considered striking up a conversation with the rather large lady sitting next to me, but she spent most of the time gabbing into the mobile phone stuck to her ear and the rest of the time playing games on it (the phone, that is). I was concerned that if the battery went flat I might have to witness her 'cold turkey', but the provision of power outlets on the bus spared me this.

The most interesting part of the journey was crossing the Delaware Memorial Bridge, which actually comprises two huge, identical, parallel suspension bridges, one carrying traffic in each direction.

When I stepped out of Union Station in D.C. (used for both buses and trains) the sun was so hot I could have been in Egypt. Beggars by the exit extended the similarity further. I had heard there was quite a bit of vagrancy in D.C. Whilst I didn't give them money, I did share my food.

Washington is a complete contrast to New York as the streets are wide and the buildings low, making it light and open. It is also very clean. Central Washington essentially comprises the huge National Mall which extends from the U.S. Capitol (sort of equivalent to our Houses of Parliament) to the Lincoln Memorial and is filled with monuments and museums. The White House is to the north side of The Mall facing the Washington Memorial. Beyond the Lincoln Memorial, on the other side of the Potomac River, are Arlington National Cemetery and the Pentagon.

Over my 3-day stay I visited all of these places, and many more besides. I saw the Watergate Complex, the U.S. Marine Corps (Iwo Jima) Memorial, JFK's grave and the place where the aircraft was flown into the Pentagon on 9/11. I saw the Thomas Jefferson, FDR, Martin Luther King, Einstein, and various war Memorials. Of the many museums I could have visited, I chose the Holocaust Memorial Museum, the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum and the American Indian Museum. With regard to the later, there was no attempt to deny how badly the Native American people had been treated in the past. What I hadn't realised was that we Europeans managed to wipe out around 90% of the indigenous population by bringing across our nasty virulent diseases with us, for which they had no immunity. A bit like War of the Worlds in reverse.

Visiting all these places involved lots of walking in the heat, but my Hostel provided a good breakfast to start the day and a great place to relax and socialise in the evenings. I met some interesting people from all four corners of the globe, clearly proving that the world is flat after all.

CENTRAL PARK

BOATS IN CENTRAL PARK

TRUMP HOTEL - CELEBRITY MEETING PLACE

Friday is my last day in New York for a while so, since the weather was so beautiful again, I decided to take a wander around Central Park. The Park is huge and needs a full day to do it justice. By following the miles of walking paths, I was taken past statues, fountains, boating lakes and even a full-blown reservoir. I visited Strawberry Fields, in front of The Dakota apartments where John Lennon was shot, and chatted to Charlie, who was playing guitar by the Imagine mosaic.

There are lots of museums around Central Park but generally I limited my exploration to just their foyers. The exception was the New-York Historical Society Museum, which I fully toured. I am sure that friend Steve Bridge and neighbour Jane, who help to run a History Group near to my home, will be delighted at my choice. The shameful truth, however, is that it was the only one that would let me in for free.

As I passed by the Trump International Hotel and Tower, comedy actor/writer James Corden and his family were leaving to catch a taxi. His small son, Max, walked straight into my legs and fell over, so I lifted him back up onto his feet while his mum gently scolded him for not watching where he was going.

There you go. I'm in New York for less than a week and already I'm hobnobbing with celebrities.

Tomorrow I move on to Washington D.C., but come September, "I'll be back!", to rob a catch phrase from another celebrity I might just meet in Hollywood.

WORLD TRADE CENTER

ONE WORLD TRADE CENTRE

SOMEONE WAVING AT ME

Today (Thursday), I made for Manhattan's financial district by walking the waterside path down the west side. I passed through several attractive parks, but the view ahead was soon dominated by 1WTC, the tallest of several new buildings which replace the destroyed World Trade Center complex. I was irresistibly drawn towards it, and soon found myself in the queue for passes to see the 9/11 Memorial.

The Memorial itself comprises waterfalls cascading into two pools set in the footprints of the Twin Towers. The names of the, almost 3,000, victims of the terrorist attacks are inscribed in bronze parapets around the pools. Surrounding the Memorial is a beautiful tree-filled plaza in which to wander around and contemplate - eventually in peace and quiet, but not right now. The Memorial is presently surrounded by a noisy army of builders who are in the process of completely reconstructing the site. I think this was what impressed me the most. There was a real sense of: 'We've been hurt, but we're coming back stronger'. The new 1WTC is taller than the original Twin Towers. Indeed it is now one of the tallest buildings in the world, and probably the most expensive. Along with its unofficial name of Freedom Tower, a statement is clearly being made here. I found the whole experience of visiting the Memorial quite an emotional one.

I continued my walk around the waterfront, and might have paid for a boat ride around the Statue of Liberty had Tam not told me that the Staten Island Ferry goes almost as close, and it's free!! I noticed a Coastguard Gunboat escorting us as we crossed the water.

On my return I walked past Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges before returning to my digs via Chinatown, which seems to have its very own Chinese-style McDonald's - Gutbuster Double Prawn Burger with Noodles and a Herbal Tea, no doubt.

PENNSYLVANIA

ONE OF US IS DEFINITELY CRACKED

A ONE HORSEPOWER VEHICLE

In contrast to the showers of yesterday, Wednesday's weather was clear and sunny - perfect for my guided coach trip to Philadelphia, City of Brotherly Love and capital city of the USA before Washington D.C., and the Amish community in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

The guide explained all sorts of fascinating stuff about the colonisation of America, the War of Independence and the foundation of the United States. It was interesting that the Liberty Bell was cast in London - were we actually trying to get rid of them? The Bell cracked when it was first rung in Philadelphia so, assuming it had a 12 month warranty, they probably didn't pay for it anyway. I expect we argued that it was broken by misuse, but I guess it wasn't worth starting a war over it.

After learning about minor American heroes such as George Washington and Benjamin Franklin, I was excited to visit the statue of a real hero, Sylvester Stallone's fictional boxer Rocky Balboa located by the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

The trip continued on to Lancaster County where we visited the Amish community in the village of Intercourse which, for all you mucky-minded titterers, means fellowship and community. They do have lots of children though, and the 55 year old buggy driver I spoke to had 9 grandchildren, which beats me. They were warm and friendly, and didn't seem to be suffering too much from their avoidance of cars, television and higher education. Indeed, their farmhouses were immaculately maintained and I got the feeling that they were smart businessmen - they were certainly adept at removing money from tourists.

CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS

86TH FLOOR OF EMPIRE STATE BUILDING



TIMES SQUARE AT NIGHT

With so many things going on, another blog entry is necessary already. On my first full day in the USA, I initially headed back to Penn Station to sort out the little matter of some Amtrak rail tickets that I had paid for on-line, but didn't receive. Not for the first time I find myself impressed with US customer service, and the necessary tickets were printed out for me without delay.

From there I go walkabout and happened to pass the Empire State Building. I hadn't intended to go in, but the lack of any queue persuaded me that I should part with $25 to take the lift to the 86th floor observatory. I was glad I did, because the view from the observatory was worth every $, and enabled me to gain an appreciation of where everything else in New York City is.

I subsequently headed for Grand Central Terminal, then the Flatiron Building, and then I walked the length of the High Line. I'll let you look these places up on Google yourself.

After returning to Tam's apartment for a cup of tea, I headed out again, this time to experience Times Square and Broadway at night. And what an experience!

Everything I have seen so far in NYC has given me a real buzz. People are friendly, even those not after your money, and I can understand why they call it the city that never sleeps...it was gone 10.00pm when I ate. Although I'm not really a city lover, there is definitely something rather magical about this place.

NEW YORK AT LAST

TAM'S PLACE

The flight was 7 hours 40 minutes, but didn't seem that long. This was partly due to the 3 generously large glasses of fruit juice and vodka passed to me by the pretty Virgin stewardess I kept smiling at, and also the fact that I was seated next to a young Irishman, Mark, who was as chatty as me. Indeed, given that my ex-wife Sheila is Irish, I felt that we were practically related. On landing, we stuck together as we navigated the vagaries of the rail transportation between JFK Airport and central Manhattan. When we emerged from Penn Station, the sight was almost overwhelming as sights that I had previously only seen in films came into view. Mark and I took a couple of pictures on each other's cameras with the Empire State Building in the background. We then spied an Irish bar over the road and consummated our brief friendship with a drink. I had Guinness, of course. Mark had a lager!! Whatever has happened to young Irishmen these days?

My digs in Manhattan were just a block away from Penn Station. Fortunately, the New York street numbering system is so simple that, even with 3 vodkas and a Guinness in my system, I couldn't get lost. I was greeted by Tam in her small but homely apartment. My bed is a futon in her lounge/dining room/kitchen. For those used to more spacious hotel accommodation, just think of the advantages. I can cook myself a meal, then jump into bed and eat it whilst watching films on the huge television. I think I will be happy here!

In the morning, I pretended I was still asleep as Tam crept past my bed on the way to work.

CHOCKS AWAY

MY RIDE OVER THE POND

Well, last chance to add a post before I fly 'over the pond' as us experienced transatlantic flyers say. This is my second time, after all.

It's lucky I'm awake enough to write this. I didn't get to bed until 3.30am and I was up again at 6.30am. Why? Because I was cutting, bending, drilling and filing metal. I had promised to fit some panniers onto Chris's pushbike but, without the additional metalwork I was making, they would have swung into the spokes and destroyed themselves, and probably Chris and the bike too. I was still finishing the job when the taxi driver arrived. He even waited patiently as I fitted a bell to the handlebars. This wasn't so much for Chris's safety as everyone else's. I hope she has a nice cycle ride in France while I am away.

My journey to Heathrow was uneventful but, looking out the window of the standby lounge, I did notice that the aircraft I was about to board has a huge fly on its nose (see photo). Obviously some technical feature to do with guidance or lift. Anyway, I'm on board now and, looking out of the window, I have just seen a leather jacketed guy with a pair of goggles perched on his head climb the rickety stepladder into the cockpit. The mechanic has just hand-cranked the engines into life and, with the cry of 'chocks away', the huge machine rolls towards a newly mown strip of grass. This is it!! China here I come?? Damn. I thought I was in the wrong queue.

ONE WEEK TO GO

Just when you think you are on top of everything, something crops up to disrupt the planning. Nothing to do with the North America trip itself, it's just that my central heating boiler has a problem and I can get any hot water. British Gas have been called, but if it doesn't get fixed before I go then it will just have to wait until I get back. I won't be needing heat or hot water while I am away anyway.

I have been keeping up the walking over the past few weeks, including two 15 mile sections of the South Downs Way with musicians 'John Jones and the Reluctant Ramblers' (see their blog), and a challenge walk of 100km (62.5 miles) to help raise funds to maintain Shedfield Old Church Tower, which aside from being an historic building, provides a home for bats. Starting at 10.00am on Saturday 8th June, I followed a circular route around Hampshire, walking through the night, to get back to the start point early on Sunday morning, having completed the walk in 20 hrs 28 mins. I slept most of the remaining weekend and my feet still ache. I'll be fine for next Monday's flight though.

ME, IN FRONT OF THE OLD CHURCH TOWER