HOME AGAIN

SCULPTURE AT RIVERSIDE PARK SOUTH

TAM GOES OFF TO WORK WHILE I PLAY

STATUE OF LIBERTY'S 'OTHER' FACE

GREEN GODDESS

USS INTREPID

THE TOMCAT IS THE ONE WITH WINGS

NO SIGN OF CAPTAIN KIRK

MY LAST VIEW OF NYC

The hot toddies had helped and I was feeling rather better. Tam had also switched on the air conditioner which made sleeping more comfortable.

My unlimited-rides subway ticket was still valid so I got out the map to see where I could use it. It was nice day, so I took a trip down to Battery Park at the southern tip of Manhattan to be by the water. 

I was last here in June and since then the ticket office at Castle Clinton, nearby, had reopened to sell tickets for the Statue of Liberty. Visits had been suspended whilst repairs to Liberty Island were being undertaken following damage caused by Hurricane Sandy last October. There are three types of ticket: 1. Liberty Island only; 2. The Island plus access to the pedestal; 3. The island, the pedestal, plus up to the crown of the statue.

I knew that tickets that included crown access were sold-out right through to November but I still hoped to get a pedestal access ticket. I was lucky as they had a ticket available for 11.00am the following morning, so I took it.

The rest of the afternoon I spent walking alongside the Hudson River on the west side of Manhattan near the Hell's Kitchen and Clinton areas, and enjoying the sculptures recently erected in Riverside Park South. Then it was up the Lincoln Center, a NYC version of the South Bank in London with theatre, ballet, opera and orchestral music. By the time I had walked back to my digs it was 7.00pm.

I rose early next morning. This was my last day so I needed time to pack my bag before I left to catch the Statue of Liberty ferry. I said farewell to Tam before she departed for work, but left my luggage at the apartment to collect later.

It was a lovely warm clear day for the ferry trip over to Liberty Island. By the time we docked it was apparent just how huge the green lady was. Although not 11.00am yet, they didn't mind me going up to the pedestal right away, but I had to get rid of my rucksack for which they had lockers available at $2 for 2hrs. It would have been useful if they had told me that earlier as my rucksack was about 20% bigger than the locker. After a lot of scrunching I got it in.

Inside the pedestal is an informative museum explaining why and how the Statue came to be (it was a gift from France), and how exactly it was made, with lots of models and illustrations. Although it may look solid, the Statue is actually made of thin sheets of copper hung from a steel gantry.

At the top of the Pedestal is a viewing platform giving superb views of the harbour and also Ellis Island where immigrants were processed.

As I was ferried back to Manhattan I looked back and thought what an amazing sight the Statue must have been to immigrants on ships as they entered the harbour. It was fitting that I should visit this iconic symbol of the USA on my last day. Did I see her wave goodbye and wish me a speedy return?

My last visit was to the 'Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum', mainly located on the WWII Aircraft Carrier USS Intrepid docked at Pier 86 on the Hudson side of Manhattan.

There were some phenomenal aircraft displayed on the carrier's flight deck: the black, sinister and incredibly fast Blackbird spy plane, a Navy Tomcat of the type used in the film Top Gun, a Dassault Etendard - it was an Argentinean Etendard that launched the Exocet missile which destroyed HMD Sheffield in the Falklands War - and a Russian built MIG21.

Recently the Museum acquired the Space Shuttle Enterprise and even had British aircraft such as Concorde and the vertical take-off Harrier.

After a quick tour of the aircraft carrier itself and the cruise missile submarine USS Growler moored on the other side of the dock, I walked back to Tam's apartment to pick up my luggage, then continued on to Penn Station for my journey to JFK Airport.

Just before walking down into the subway I took a picture of the Empire State Building - the first building I had pictured when Mark and I had emerged from the same place nearly three months earlier.

The flight back to Heathrow was uneventful, other than for the tall chap next to me who thought it OK to spread-eagle his long legs into my space. When he intruded too much I refused to give way any more so we ended up touching knees for much of the journey. Other than that we barely acknowledged each other. It was an overnight flight and Virgin Atlantic's on-board supper and breakfast was OK, as was the G'n'T. I watched the films Oblivion and A Good Day to Die Hard (pretty awful) on the entertainment system to help pass the time.

My taxi home was waiting for me as I emerged from Heathrow Airport and I was efficiently driven me home via my favourite route along the A32. I don't think that I fully acknowledged my 3-month tour of North America was truly over until I walked into my house.

Jet-lagged, I jumped into my nice, warm, comfortable and, most of all, familiar bed to readjust to UK time.

FULL CIRCLE

BOSTON'S TRINITY CHURCH REFLECTED IN JOHN HANCOCK BUILDING

QUINCY MARKET

USS CONSTITUTION

SOARING EAGLE AT CONEY ISLAND

MAGGIE? SINGS POP

WHAT, ONLY $10,000?

HOT TODDY INGREDIENTS

The Amtrak arrived at Penn Station in New York City exactly on schedule at 9.50pm. A 20 minute walk got me to Tam's place, except Tam was in Boston. No problem as I knew how to let myself in. Shortly afterwards Tam's roommate Joe appeared briefly with a friend, then went out again, while I went to bed.

When I woke up I had a sore throat and a raised temperature. I could feel it coming the previous day and had prepared with some throat sweets - but couldn't get any medicinal whiskey while on the train all day. The thought of spending a day in bed in somebody's lounge didn't appeal so I decided it was better to be ill on my feet.

I knew that the bus tour company who took me to see Philadelphia and the Amish ten and a half weeks ago also did a day-trip to Boston, so I walked to the pick-up point near Grand Central Station. The coach was quite full of Spanish tourists but there was room for me so I paid my money and off we all went.

There were both English and Spanish speaking guides on board and they were supposedly imparting the same information, but I noted that the Spanish version took about three times as long!

Boston is in Massachusetts, two states away, and it took over four hours to drive there. On the way we passed through New Haven in Connecticut where the famous Yale University is located.

Boston is an even more notable academic centre, being the home of Berklee College of Music and, on the other side of the George River in Cambridge, Harvard University, the oldest higher education institution in the USA, and Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

Other things we saw in Boston included the modern glass-clad John Hancock Tower in which you can see the reflection of the old Trinity Church that stands next door.

Boston is also famous because of the Boston Tea Party and other events leading up to the American Revolution. We followed the Freedom Trail which is a red line linking together several sites relating to this time, including the Massachusetts State House, the Granary Burying Ground where John Hancock, whose flamboyant signature would have been the first on the Declaration of Independence, is buried, and the Old State House.

We stopped for a bite to eat at Quincy Market before continuing along the Trail to Charleston Navy Yard to see USS Constitution, ordered to be built by George Washington in 1794 initially for use against marauding pirates and later in the 1812 War.

The return journey to NYC took another four hours and, whilst I wouldn't say that the trip actually did much to cure my sore throat, it did take mind off it for a while.

The following day was Labor Day, a holiday that takes place on the first Monday of September as a tribute to the social and economic contributions of workers. 

The fact it was Labor Day didn't make my throat any less sore though, but it was warm out so I thought it best to be outdoors still. I initially went to Penn Station to determine the best way to get to JFK Airport for my flight home on Wednesday. While I was looking at the ticket machine, a young couple gave me a ticket for unlimited travel on the subway. It was valid for the rest of the week but they were leaving town and wouldn't need it anymore. I thanked them and decided to see where I could go with it.

Looking at the subway map I saw Coney Island in Brooklyn. I knew that Coney Island was a big Amusement Park, but it had a beach too and I was sure the sea air would be beneficial to my health. I had to change trains to get there so it was all good practice on how to get around on the subway.

Coney Island's Luna Park is more about huge thrilling rides than slot machines, and I enjoyed watching people terrify themselves on the Soaring Eagle, the Sling Shot and the Board Walk Flight.

I walked along the beach for a while and then listened to some very good and some very bad karaoke artists (or should I say participants) performing on the boardwalk. Everyone was having fun and it seemed to be a place where people of all genders gathered (as I am sure there were more than two here).

The place was a little like Brighton beach in the UK (indeed there is a place called Brighton Beach nearby). The main difference was the huge police presence - I must have seen around 50 police officers on duty and there were cars everywhere along with a large 'Communications HQ' truck. I noted the stickers on the backs of the police cars advertising a $10,000 reward for arrest and conviction of anyone shooting a NYC Police Officer. I didn't see the slightest sign of trouble while I was there.

The previous evening Tam had offered me some honey to sooth my throat, so I got some whiskey and lemons on the way back to add to this, and spent the evening supping hot toddies.

NIAGARA

BOARDING THE MAID OF THE MIST

ENJOYING THE SHOWER

AMERICAN FALLS

THE OTHER PART OF NIAGARA FALLS

FORT MISSISSAUGA

INNISKILLIN WINERY

FIREWORKS AND ILLUMINATED FALLS

AMERICAN FALLS FROM US SIDE

My tours of Calgary and Toronto had been done with very little sleep, so I was in no hurry to get out of my bed at the Canadiana Hostel. Indeed, even when I did, I slouched around for so long that I ended up rushing to catch my 12.30pm Megabus ride to Niagara.

Megabus had advertised tickets for this one and a half hour journey for as little as one dollar, which is exactly what I paid for mine.

The bus dropped me off by Niagara Railway Station (on the Canadian side) so I had a good two miles to walk to the Hostel in sweltering heat. My room was up two flights of stairs and my shoulder ached, so I was delighted to find that my luggage had been carried up to the dorm whilst another staff member showed me around.

After a change of clothes I headed down to the River to take the Maid of the Mist boat tour which passes close to the American, the Bridal Veil and the Horseshoe Falls, the three waterfalls that make up Niagara Falls. Unlike most of the passengers, I chose not to wear the plastic poncho they gave me. Given how hot it was, the cool mist produced by the Falls was most welcome and I soon dried off. I was more impressed by the Falls than I thought I would be. The mist combined with the bright sun ensured that there was a good permanent rainbow. A secondary rainbow was also visible which made it a double rainbow. There is no doubt about it. Niagara Falls is amazing. It seems that Takakkaw Falls in Yoho must now take second place in my ratings, although the setting of the latter is better, for reasons which become apparent below.

I continued exploring the Canadian side of the River, taking a close look at the Skylon Tower (not worth going up as only a mere 520 ft high) before returning to the Hostel through Niagara Falls town centre - if this is a fair description. The town centre is actually more like an amusement arcade, with all the flashing lights, gambling machines, burger bars and a funfair. I went back to have a look at it lit up in the late evening, but it wasn't up to Times Square or Las Vegas standards. There was a Harley Davidson shop open, however, and the shop assistant kindly took a picture of me on a Harley. So I got to sit on one after all, even though I didn't go anywhere.

The following day I hired a bicycle and rode roughly 17 miles north alongside the river to Niagara-on-the-Lake. This was a much more pleasant place than the town of Niagara Falls. There are two forts here: Fort George which fell to the Americans in the war of 1812 and was subsequently recaptured by the British, and Fort Mississauga which was built by the British as a stronger replacement.

I hadn't realised this was a major wine growing region until I got here, so on my return journey I stopped by the Jackson-Triggs and the Inniskillin Wineries. I received tasters from both, including some very sweet Icewine served by Sue at the latter. I didn't drink enough to make me wobble on the bike though.

The roads in this area were laid out on a grid system, as I had seen many times in North America. What was unusual were the road names. East to west roads are called Line 1 Road, Line 2 Road, Line 3 Road, etc. and the north to south roads Concession 1 Road, Concession 2 Road, Concession 3 Road, etc. I understand that the terms arise from when land was conceded to farmers by the Crown.

Back in Niagara Falls I had planned to see the waterfalls at night when they are illuminated with coloured lights. On this particular night there was also a firework display. I wasn't sure what the special event was. Perhaps it was for me? As it happens, the display turned out to be a regular thing on Fridays and Sundays.

I was up early on the Saturday as I wanted to depart the Hostel before 8.00am and walk back to the USA across the Rainbow Bridge before a queue built up at the border crossing. I needn't have worried as I went almost straight through, leaving me with lots of time to explore the US side of the Falls. The Tourist Information Center let me leave my luggage with them as I walked all the way around Goat Island. This gave me a different perspective of the three waterfalls. Whereas from the Canadian side you can appreciate the beauty of them, from the US side it is the power of the water that is apparent. The water flow and the noise, even well back from the Falls, are incredible and I doubt that anyone falling in could avoid going over.

I picked up my luggage and walked with it to the Niagara Amtrak Station on the US side. It was a long walk, made longer because of my supermarket detour to buy food for the nearly nine and a half hour rail journey ahead. My shoulder ached from carrying my bag but the train to New York City was waiting for me when I got there. I would be back at Tam's place again that evening.

TALE OF TWO CITIES

STREET CULTURE IN CALGARY

'FAMILY OF MAN' SCULPTURE IN CALGARY

CALGARY ARCHITECTURE

CALGARY SHOPPING CENTRE

TORONTO'S ROGERS CENTRE AND CN TOWER

DOWNTOWN TORONTO

NATHAN PHILIPS SQUARE

POSH NOSH AT THE CN TOWER

Catching the Brewster bus at 10.00am, I said farewell to Banff. As I travelled east the mountain views retreated to be replaced by rich green woodland and low grassy hills. I was reminded of my home county, Hampshire, UK.

As I headed towards Calgary, where I would be catching a plane for Toronto, my last chance of seeing a bear was evaporating. Since bears generally avoid humans this was perhaps to be expected, especially since I had undertaken all the recommended precautions whilst camping and walking in the US and Canadian National Parks. Whilst an encounter at a safe distance would have made my day, I suspect that if I ever had come within earshot of a bear, they would probably have skedaddled as soon as they heard the clatter of my trekking poles.

At 12.15pm the bus deposited me just outside the Fairmont Palliser Hotel in downtown Calgary. I didn't need to get to the airport until the evening so I had half a day free. I popped into the Hotel and they kindly agreed to look after my luggage while I explored the city.

On the same block as the Hotel is the 626 ft Calgary Tower with its revolving (no, not revolting) restaurant, glass floor and 'unforgettable panoramic views of the City' (their words). I decided not to part with my cash on this one as I would soon be seeing the much higher CN Tower in Toronto.

Calgary has a smart and wealthy look to it, probably due to it being the oil capital of Canada. There were lots of yuppie types in suits walking the streets purposefully with leather folders under their arms, or engaged in earnest conversation in restaurants.

I visited the Fort Calgary Interpretive Centre and learned much about the origins of the city and its development through the years. Calgary had been an important stepping stone to the exploration and development of the Northwest Territories, and this seems to have been achieved without the same level of conflict with the Native Indians that occurred in the USA. Much credit for this was due to the important role played by the North West Mounted Police, later renamed the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.

I continued my walk along the southern bank of the Bow River (same river as in Lake Louise Village and Banff), detouring onto Prince's Island. There were lots of temporary fences erected as workers repaired the damage caused by June's floods.

My walk continued on until I reached the new Peace Bridge which, being covered, is more like a tunnel. I just hope peace is maintained between the potentially conflicting mix of speeding cyclists and dawdling pedestrians for whom it has been built. I took a look at the Calgary Chinese Cultural Centre before returning to the downtown area using the +15 Network.

The +15 Network, otherwise known as the Skyway, is a series of walkways 15 feet above street level that interconnect many of the city's buildings. The intention is to make the movement of pedestrians about the city safer by keeping them separated from cars. It certainly succeeded in getting me lost.

Many of the downtown restaurants are located in a pedestrianised street called, naturally, Stephen Avenue. After eating a Chinese (meal, that is) I returned to the Palliser to collect my luggage and catch the 300 bus to the airport.

My WestJet flight didn't leave until well after midnight. After a three and a half hour flight which involved crossing two time zones, I stepped out of Toronto Airport shortly before 7.00am. Public transport to downtown Toronto was less than obvious, but I managed to catch a bus to a subway station and then ride the subway into the city centre, all without paying - completely inadvertently, yer honour, I just couldn't find anywhere to pay.

I came back up to street level at Dundas Station to be greeted by a scene not unlike Central London - dull, grey and dirty. After a short walk, which would have been even shorter had I known that Osgoode Station was closer to my destination, I found the Canadiana Backpackers Hostel. It was too early to book in but they let me have some breakfast, take a shower and store my luggage.

Toronto is a much bigger place than Calgary with nearly 5 times the population and, being closer to the east coast, has been established rather longer. I had also learned by now that Canadians don't pronounce the second 't' in Toronto so I should be calling the place Toron'o. 

From the Hostel I initially headed towards Lake Ontario, passing the Rogers Centre where the Blue Jays Baseball Team are based and the iconic 1,815 ft CN Tower. In nearby Roundhouse Park, locomotives from the Toronto Railway Museum were on display and Steam Whistle Brewing served me with free beer.

I continued on to Queen's Quay where ferries depart for tours of the various islands just off Toronto, but couldn't see much across the water because of the fog. I struck north along Bay Street passing Union Station before coming to the Financial District. Underneath here is PATH, a network of over 17 miles of underground walkways linking nearly 1,200 shops, restaurants and services. It's Toronto's equivalent to Calgary's Skywalk, but appears to be much more successful commercially.

I continued north past Nathan Philips Square and the Old and New City Halls until I reached Bloor Street. Taking a left I came to the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) where they were displaying art relating to David Bowie. Finally, a walk through Queen's Park and Chinatown took me back to the Hostel.

My initial impression that Toronto has some similarities to London stayed with me. It has a mix of modern skyscrapers and old buildings. Whilst walking under the raised Gardiner Expressway road near the lake shore, I noted how badly the reinforced concrete support structure was crumbling. Workmen were out repairing this. Several major new constructions were underway including a second platform at Union Station Subway.

For the evening I had booked supper in the revolving gourmet 360 Restaurant at the CN Tower. It was expensive, but after existing on Subway takeaways for some time I was due a treat. Also, by eating, I didn't have to pay to go on the viewing platform. The nighttime views over Toronto were great.

LAKE LOUISE AND BANFF

TIME TO LEAVE LAKE O'HARA

LAKE LOUISE

DOWNTOWN BANFF

BANFF FROM SANSON PEAK

DIORAMA AT BUFFALO NATIONS MUSEUM

NEED TO HANDLE THIS AGWA BOMB CAREFULLY

The Lake O'Hara bus picked us up from the campground at 9.30am and took us back down to the car park. We loaded up Doug and Mary Margaret's car and they drove me to The Alpine Hostel in Lake Louise Village. This short journey took me out of British Columbia and into Alberta.

It was time to say farewell after 9 days together. I was lucky to have such great hosts to show me around Vancouver and share a camping trip with me in what must surely be one of the most beautiful places in the Rockies.

Back on my own again, I looked around the geology displays in the Lake Louise Visitor Center and booked tomorrow's bus journey to Banff and another from Banff to Calgary in three day's time. By the time I'd wandered round the Village shops and had lunch, it was early afternoon.

Lake Louise itself is about two and a half miles away from the Village so I caught the shuttle bus. The lakeside is dominated by the huge Fairmont Chateau Hotel and was crowded with people who, judging by the attire and languages spoken, must come from all over the world. From the footwear, I would say that many of them were here just to enjoy the views rather than go walking. The view over the Lake was truly magical, but I did find the bustle of people a little irritating after the much less crowded Lake O'Hara.

I didn't have a lot of time left for walking, but managed to climb the steep path up to Fairview Lookout which overlooks the Lake from the south.

Afterwards the shuttle bus took me back to the Village where I bought the ingredients I needed to cook supper at the Hostel. I was sharing a dorm with three Italian ladies who were exploring several National Parks in the Canadian Rockies over 15 days.

Next morning I had 'blog' writing to do and repairs to make to my clothes before the Brewster Bus picked me up and took me to Banff. I was a little early to check into my Hostel in Banff, so I filled in the time by exploring the town.

Banff is a bit of a 'model' town and it reminded me of Jasper in Wyoming (not to be confused with Jasper National Park in Canada). Everything is clean and tidy and new looking. However, it has charm about it and there is plenty to do - walking, cycling, kayaking, river trips, glacier tours, museum visits, etc. I felt that I had made the right decision to leave Lake Louise and come here.

After checking into the Samesun Backpackers Hostel I visited the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies which told me a little about the history of the area.

I then went for a walk, theoretically following the Tunnel Mountain Trail, but in practice creating a brand new route that I shall call 'Steve's Woodland Wander' since somewhere along the way I took a wrong turning and ended up just wandering around for about two hours. My unplanned route did take me to some spectacular viewpoints, so I was quite happy to have made my mistake. I eventually used the sun to guide me back to the town.

The Hostel was offering a Supper Special of 'Pulled Pork Tacos' and a cocktail called an Agwa Bomb, both of which I enjoyed. Agwa is a herbal liqueur made of Bolivian coca leaves (with the cocaine removed). To make an Agwa Bomb pour Red Bull into a (ideally specially shaped) glass, then pour the Agwa on top of it. After two glasses I slept well.

I think I was sharing a dorm with five other chaps, but I am not sure because they were still buried under their blankets when I got up.

After taking advantage of the Hostel's 'free' breakfast, I caught the bus for a 12 minute ride to Upper Hot Springs, the starting point for a hike up Sulphur Mountain. There is pool here where, for a fee, you can bathe in the hot spring water. The name of the mountain derives from the vapours emanating from the water.

The trail was steep and it took me about 75 minutes to get to the upper Gondola terminal - the Gondola being an alternative way up for those who preferred not to walk. A further 5 minutes took me to Sanson Peak at 7,401 ft, where there is a disused observatory and a platform offering excellent views over Banff.

I had planned to return via the Gondola rather than descend using the same path I hiked up on. However, once at the top, I discovered that there was an alternative path down and took this instead. This path eventually intersected another path leading to Sundance Canyon, so I took a detour around the Canyon before I continued down to Banff. A further aside was a visit to the Lower Hot Springs at the Cave and Basin National Historic Site. These springs are part of the same system as the Upper Hot Springs.

A little further along I came to the Buffalo Nations Museum which had some really good artefacts and displays about the Plains Indians of Canada.

It was past 6.00pm by the time I got back to the Hostel. I had been out for 9 hours and had walked about 14 miles.

The Hostel's Supper Special was Columbian Pork Curry (probably the same pork as used the previous evening). Given my energetic day out it wasn't quite enough for me so I supplemented it with some Wonton veggie rolls. Add two beers and an Agwa Bomb and I was ready for another night of peaceful rest...zzzzz. 

YOHO HO!

TAKAKKAW FALLS

MARY MARGARET AND DOUG ON ICELINE TRAIL, YOHO

ICELINE TRAIL

WITH MARY MARGARET AT ICELINE SUMMIT

AMAZING LAKE O'HARA

LAKE O'HARA FROM ICELINE LEDGES

NICE SURROUNDINGS!

FRIENDLY COLUMBIAN GROUND SQUIRREL

MY HOTEL

Tuesday 20th August and the morning started by loading Doug's car with all our walking gear, camping gear and food.

Our ultimate goal was to walk in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Mary Margaret had identified some great treks around Lake O'Hara, but getting there was a long drive so we would stop and spend the night at other places along the way.

At about 9.00am we set off in a northerly direction along Highway 99, the so called Sea to Sky Highway, and by 11.0am we were in Whistler, a place I'd heard about and wanted to visit. Whistler Village, located between the Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, is a well known ski resort and host to the 2010 Winter Olympics. However, at this time of year snow resides only on the highest peaks so mountain bikes are in much greater evidence than skis. Although Whistler might be referred to as village, with its equipment hire shops, expensive restaurants and activities for children it would be better described as a theme park. 

We later stopped to have lunch on the banks of Cayoosh Creek near Lillooet, but didn't spend too long there as we still had many miles to go. We hadn't booked a place to stay the night but came across ViewPoint campground near Salmon Arm, BC, just as the light was beginning to fade. Mary Margaret had pre-prepared and frozen an excellent chicken and sausage cassoulet which we reheated and enjoyed with her home-made bread before retiring to our tents.

I awoke at 6.00pm after a relatively comfortable night in a tent lent to me by Doug and Mary Margaret's son Matt. The campground had been a good choice with clean washrooms and hot showers. After eating and packing our gear we were on our way at 7.40am.

As we drove further east the views got better and better, with the roadside lined with spruce and cottonwood trees and mountains surrounding us. At last we saw the Rocky Mountains ahead of us as we entered Yoho National Park. Having obtained our permit to enter the park we headed for Takakkaw campground. We pitched out tents within sight of Takakkaw Falls, possibly the most impressive waterfall I had seen to date.

It was 2.00pm by now and we needed to get moving if we were going to get a decent walk in. Mary Margaret had done some research and proposed the Iceline Trail which took us to up to Iceline Summit (7,316 ft). The trail led over rocky moraine and past icy pools, with views of the glaciers to the north and over on the other side of Yoho Valley. On reaching the summit we walked back down via the Little Yoho and Yoho Valley's, passing Laughing Falls before returning to the campsite. It was a great walk of about 12 miles with brilliant views, but we didn't get down until after 9.00pm so we had to cook our food in the dark. I didn't tell them that it was my birthday until after we ate, but my day out in the Rockies was one of the best birthday treats I could imagine.

It was cold by the time we were ready to sleep and even colder when we rose at 6.00am in the morning with frost on our tents. We quickly broke camp, reloaded the car and made our way to Lake O'Hara.

You cannot drive all the way to Lake O'Hara but have park your car seven miles away and travel the remaining distance in a special park bus. Moreover, it is difficult to even stay at Lake O'Hara campground because Yoho Park authorities have limited the number of tents to 33. Thanks to Doug getting our booking in early, we are able to stay for two nights. I felt honoured.

As soon as the bus got us to the campground, we were given a little lecture by a Park Ranger about camp facilities, bear precautions and how to care for the environment, etc. We had breakfast as soon as we had pitched our tents.

Lake O'Hara is at an altitude of 6,627 ft. Our walk for the day was to climb from here up the steep Wiwaxy Gap Alpine Route to obtain the great views from the top at 8,300 ft. Looking down, Lake O'Hara is a beautiful deep blue colour whereas the other surrounding lakes are bright green. There were glaciers to be seen all about us. We continued along the loose scree slopes of Huber Ledges to Lake Oesa where we had lunch. A helicopter involved in a rescue at Abbot Pass landed there briefly.

We continued our walk around Yukness Ledges, then back down to Lake O'Hara via the East Opabin Trail and alongside the lake shore back to the campsite. The walk was about 7 miles but seemed longer because of the difficulty.

We agreed to rise at 7.00am next morning, but I had already eaten breakfast by the time Doug and Mary Margaret appeared, their watches having been left on Vancouver time.

We would all walk to Lake McArthur today, but by different routes. I took the All Souls Alpine Route to Lake Shaffer whereas Mary Margaret and Doug took the Alpine Meadow Trail. The All Souls Route was exposed and scree covered and, after reaching the Prospect Viewpoint at 7,152 ft, there was a long slippery slope down to Lake Shaffer. It was 12.30pm when we eventually got back together again at Lake McArthur. We had lunch, carefully watched by a photogenic Columbian Ground Squirel, then walked back down to Lake O'Hara. It rained lightly and the temperature was cooler than the previous day.

We were back in time to enjoy afternoon tea at the very expensive Lake O'Hara Lodge while our gear dried. We also had our supper earlier than usual so that we could attend an 8.30pm talk by one of the Park Rangers on Caribou and threats to their survival.

Tomorrow we will leave Lake O'Hara, but I feel I have been privileged to come to this beautiful, uncrowded and unspoilt place, to experience the challenging walks and enjoy the amazing scenery.

VANCOUVER FROM THE AIR

IS IT A BOAT OR A PLANE?

VANCOUVER FROM THE AIR

PLAYING AT CO-PILOT

DRUMMERS AT SPANISH BANKS

SPOT THE BELLY DANCER

VIEW FROM ST. MARKS SUMMIT

Whilst cycling near Coal Harbour on Friday I had noted the Turbo Otter Seaplanes moored at the pontoons. I had never flown in a seaplane before, so I called in at the nearby offices of Harbour Air to collect a brochure. Next morning I booked a half hour flight which would take me over Vancouver and the surrounding area.

I arrived at the Harbour Air offices in good time. When I boarded the aircraft at 2.30pm, my lone traveller status worked in my favour as I was allocated the co-pilot's seat, which gave me the best views. The take off was really smooth, as was the landing, and I took photographs almost continuously during the flight. The whole experience was great fun.

Afterwards we drove to the house of Doug's niece Marcia and her husband Paul. They live quite close to Doug and Mary Margaret and were having a family barbeque to which I was invited. The food was excellent.

Next day we spent the morning planning the food for our camping trip to the Rocky Mountains which would take place later in the week. In the afternoon we bought the food and then went to look at a few parts of Vancouver that I hadn't yet visited.

First, we had a wander along Commercial Drive, a hip neighbourhood with a mix of ethnic shops and restaurants. Next we stopped to look around the stalls and listen to the music at the Latin Summer Festival held at Trout Lake Park.

Finally we went to Spanish Banks to listen to the beat of drums while the sun slowly set in the west. People brought their own drums with them to join in, and a couple of girls belly danced seductively to the hypnotic rhythm. Naturally I averted my eyes.

Even though I went to bed at a sensible time, Doug still needed to knock on my door to rouse me next morning. We needed to be away by 7.45am to join his walking group for a trek to St. Marks Summit to the north of Vancouver. It was cool and a bit misty, but we still got a good view from the top. We were out for about 6 hours.

The rest of the day was spent preparing for next morning's camping trip departure, which meant washing clothes, making repairs and packing food and gear.

After eating a lovely stir-fry supper, and before it became too dark, Doug took me for a walk around Lake Como which is located just a short distance from the house.